Beer exploration is a wonderful endeavor. Seeking out new taste sensations can take us to new places when our wanderlust entices us to do so at their source. Walled medieval towns and quiet hamlets we’d have otherwise missed are just a few of the things that keep the fire alive.
places like Weißenburg & Geisfeld
From the rich golden hue of a new beer gleaming in the sun to rolling green hills dotted with fall foliage, the path to beer is full of impressions which drive us forward, always towards something new.
golden hues of both beer & leaves
For those who have done this extensively, it gets harder to duplicate those first times out, when all was exciting and new. So, when you stumble upon something you somehow hadn’t even heard of, you tingle with anticipation. When those things are hard to attain, it’s with a sense of both hope and apprehension that we carve our ways towards them. That’s how it was with Unfinden.
often the best discoveries are people
As is often the case, people are the best discoveries and though far from the first of my Franconian inspirations, Manuele Colonna was certainly the one who led me first to many a small brewery in Lower Franconia and in the end to the Kommunbrauereien out there. The Birra in Franconia author and Rome beer entrepreneur had made some posts on social media about the area that had my imagination running and my eyes scouring maps in search of Unfinden. It was easy enough to find but getting there would prove another story.
first Kommunbrauerei for me: Köslau
I finally got to meet Manuele when he took me on one of his “ordinary” days out which included two of my favorite breweries. As chance would have it, I met a member of Brauhaus Unfinden on the outing. Heiner was gregarious and effusive when he spoke of his communal brewery. After that brief meeting, he often messaged me when they were having a brew day or event. I was obviously welcome to attend but without a car, they remained elusive. As chance would have it, I soon met a fellow American named Jose, who had been stationed in Franconia in the 90s. Living in the heart of it, Lower Franconia was certainly his domain and he knew the current and defunct breweries in his area well. He also had some contacts in the communal brewery scene and not so long after we’d met, he was asked to join the one in Köslau. That was the beginning of a great journey not only for him but for me as well.
down to earth festivals in Köslau, Dörflis & Roßfeld
Suddenly, doors previously closed were open and Jose, being an LA driving kinda guy, was graciously taking me on quite a few adventures. From the Köslau Oktoberfest to festivals in Dörflis and Roßfeld, I was struck by their being both uniquely exotic beer experience-wise and yet somehow so familiar. Throwbacks to another era when things were simpler, these festivals were local, down to earth neighborhood gatherings. The the thing that impressed me most was just how friendly the people were, even to someone with limited German skills. Homemade was the theme too and not just the beer. From local sausages to salads, breads and cakes, everything was made locally and generally by members or their families.
festivals in Rügheim & Ebern
Rounding out the picture, Jason, a good friend from Bamberg, took me out to a festival in Rügheim, where wouldn’t you know it, Heiner and later Jose and his Köslauer comrades were on hand. Larger festivals featuring multiple beers in Ebern added more communal beers to my cap and showed another side to what this community is starting to do in small steps: spread the good news of what they are doing. An even nicer thing was happening, everywhere I went I knew people and they knew me. While not a member, I was a friend and was welcome to share in the fruits of their labor.
finally, Unfinden
There was just one thing missing: Unfinden. I’d missed yet again their Braufest in June. It always falls around my niece’s birthday and while my wife is beyond understanding, even I know beer is not family. So, I’d ear-marked their Bockbieranstich in late November for my first visit. I knew it would be less than ideal for photos. It gets dark pretty early in these parts that time of year and Franconians love drinking Bock outside at night. They’re a hardy lot. As chance would have it, Jose was recently going to one of their brewing days and asked if I’d like to tag along? Ya sure, ya betcha.
an amazing restoration job & some serious brewing equipment
The drive out to Unfinden passes through a beautiful countryside of rolling hills, dotted with small often charming villages, such as Dörflis. After the few excursions I’ve done out there, it now seems quite familiar, calming and pleasant. I spotted a castle ruin above Königsberg and knew our destination was close at hand. As often is the case when I’m in a car, I wanted to get out and make my way to the top to investigate it further but Brauhaus Unfinden was calling and I was overdue to answer. Even within the close circle of Lower Franconian communal breweries, this one is admired for being well-run and successful. Success it would seem is not always the same as making money. These guys are making great beer and holding events that bring their community as well as their neighboring ones together. There are 75 members and they are happy to brew the allotted 200 tax-free liters per member by German law, which is the whole point of communal brewing in the first place. They must however pay tax on beer sold at their events.
a lovely setting & hard-working group of guys
I’ll not deny it seemed a bit surreal walking into the brewing day activities but as a friend of Jose, I was warmly welcomed. I mostly tried to stay out of the way as much as possible. It was close quarters and they were quite busy with the brewing process, but they took the time to greet me. You could easily see why none of the other communal breweries allow visitors on these days. I was able to check out their cool ship, mash turn, open fermentation vessel and even crush some Hallertauer hops in my fingers to get a good oily whiff. I’m not a brewer so what I mostly enjoyed was the obvious pride they felt in having restored this special place.
the beer, the friends & the fire
Well, what about the beer? The Üflder Hausbier was a quaffable Kellerbier. The company? Even better. The younger guys even broke into an impromptu singalong of Sweet Caroline as they shoveled out the spent grain from the mash turn. I’m not sure if that was for me as an American or Munich Wiesn resident but it sure made me feel at home. Heiner arrived towards the end for a beer in their courtyard and decided to show us a lovely old Inn up the street, despite it not actually being open. Not a problem in a small village evidently if you’re with the right person. I thanked him but was ambivalent about it being a good thing. Just as I’d put out one fire by finally getting to Unfinden, he’d lit another. Now, I can’t wait to go back for a meal at the Schwarzer Adler. Besides, there’s a castle ruin above nearby Königsberg I just have to climb up to.
The 12th Annual Ülfder Bockbieranstich is November 30th at 18:00
For more practical information about Unfinden:
Unfinden (Königsberg)
For more Franconian Communal Brewery write-ups:
Köslauer Rennweg Brauer
Roßfelder Brauhaus
Brauhaus Döflis
Brauhaus Rügheim
Brauhaus Unfinden
If Beerwanderers has helped you find some new places, please consider buying me a beer 🍺!
It just goes without saying that any time Sweet Caroline is sung while beer is being brewed or part of the process has to be “So Good, So Good, So Good.” The next step is having a Üflder Hausbier during the eighth inning at Fenway Park during a Red Sox game.
Not sure they could produce enough for that. haha