The consecration of the local church known as Kirchweih in high German is one of the more festive days of the year in any given German town, especially small villages. Generally kicking off with a church procession, they segue into largely mini-Folk Festivals, often featuring rides/games for the kids, music and local culinary delicacies. Of course, it being Germany, there’s always beer on hand.
Kerwa at Brauerei Schroll in Reckendorf
Known by numerous names due to dialectic variations, Franconia alone boasts Kerwa, Kärwa, Kerba, Kerm and Kerwe. While a visit to any will prove interesting, picking one with a brewery in town is surely most intriguing to those with a beery bent. It used to be that you’d run across pamphlets in tourist information centers listing them regionally but finding them has become progressively easier with various websites heralding their Kirchweih Kalenders, literally a listing by date of every one of them in a given area. Breweries are also starting to promote them as events on social media, perhaps more helpful to the casual visitor looking to attend one with a particular brewery’s beer.
Schlachtshüssel is often in the mix
Reckendorf recently had theirs and even small Brauerei Schroll heralded it on Facebook, including the opening day Schlachtschüssel. For the uninitiated, this is a rustic plate of various pig parts soon after its slaughter. The Schweinfurt variation involves eating it at a large wooden communal table but you’ll be served yours up on a more civilized plate at the Kerwa. Since I was going to another Kerwa that weekend, I rushed out to sample their new Kerwabier and while there I was happy to find a pick & choose variation of the often too big Schlachtplatte. I opted for the Kesselfleisch & Blutwurst (pork belly & blood sausage) and it was tasty but more than enough. This pregame so to speak was mostly guys there for the food and beer, with the other attractions set up but not yet open.
opening tapping of St. Petrus Festbier
The next day I found myself at the St. Petrus Festbier Anstich at Brauerei Griess in Geisfeld. This relatively new beer is a sign that the breweries are starting to treat the Kerwa as an opportunity to promote their beer to a wider than the village audience. Though largely attended by locals, there was a small smattering of my beer associates on hand and my guess is there will be a few more next year. The beer was marvelous but again, it was too early for the festivities.
a hike to a Kerwa
That weekend, as luck would have it, I was to lead a small group from Canada on a beer hike in the Franconian countryside but many of my usual stops were closed due their being on vacation following their Kerwas. That’s the downside of these events, the breweries generally go on as long as a three week holiday following a very busy long weekend. I was looking at some long dry spots for a group of people who admitted to be doing the hike mostly for the beer. So, I was happy that the Kerwa in Geisfeld would be in full swing when we passed through. They loved the wholesome atmosphere and of course the beer.
a saving the best for last
These events always spill into Monday and sometimes even Tuesday but obviously are low key, especially during the day when most people are working. There was some excitement in the air for the last day of the Geisfeld Kerwa. As small as Geisfeld is, it’s home to not one but two world class breweries. Unfortunately, Brauerei Krug no longer operates their pub so having their exalted beer on tap is a feather in any beer hunter’s cap. As chance would have it, their beer was the featured one for the closeout of the 2024 edition of the Geisfeld Kerwa. I’d worked on the weekend so headed out early due to how the buses run only to find about thirty people playing cards in small groups, obviously enjoying the beer. There had been a Weißwurstfrühstuck and I was happy to find an amazing Krustenbraten Semmel still on offer. I’ll admit to feeling a bit lonely watching the camaraderie of those seated with friends so I took a walk out to the closed Griesskeller to bide my time. When friends who had been working or on other beery excursions started to arrive, I was finally able to fully appreciate the Kerwa and even the beer more. These events are about a lot of things: food, beer, parades, rides but most of all they are about a gathering of people enjoying those things together.
Heading to Bamberg for the first time? Don’t leave home without The Pocket Guide to Bamberg’s Best Beer.
If going in the warmer months, consult The Guide to Bamberg’s Best Biergartens.
If you’re looking to get a taste of the Franconian countryside and to visit some small regional breweries, the Bamberg Countryside Beer Hike Food Experience is for you. Book now to ensure your spot.
My late brother, as an Army Officer in the Third Armored Cavalry, was stationed in Schweinfurt as a young lieutenant and I remember him writing home about the experience. He loved the experience at the communal table.
Very cool. I’ve not been to one yet but have friends from that area so hopefully will one day.
Thanks for the great write up – lots of information I wasn’t aware of and I appreciate the details of the local traditions. I was fortunate to be able to attend two Karwas near each other on a trip in 2019 – Egersdorf and Wachendorf a week or two apart. Neither town had a local brewery to sponsor it but I enjoyed it nonetheless. Egersdorf may have a population of 500 people and I was certainly the only non local on the day I attended. That actually added to my enjoyment. Filmed them raising a pole (wasn’t a Maipole but a similar tradition around the Karwa) and also saw the locals playing cards as you did. A local German band playing music, the only English speaking song being, of course, Sweet Caroline. The rest of my friends and family prefer the larger festivals but I enjoyed the local flavor of the small town event more myself.
Hoping go return in 2026- when my older daughter will actually be intrigued with beer and old enough to give it a try.
Thanks for enjoying, Matt and glad you’ve been to and like the small festivals. I should have written something about the raising of the tree but did have the photo in. Brauerei Griess had a cool reel on cutting it down on Instagram. Here’s to getting your daughter into beer!