Franconia is one of the most brewery dense places on earth and while every brewery might not be a world beater, average beer here is generally good and there’s plenty of excellent beer to be had. Then there are the beers which defy these parameters and are often hard to pigeon-hole with regard to beer style. When this combines with the elusive rustic nature in the best of Franconian beer, it’s what makes this region so special. Two such beery marvels are Gradl Dunkel and Schrüfer Dunkles Vollbier. How do they compare? Find out in this Franconian Dark Beer Face-off.
Gradl Dunkel & Schrüfer Dunkles Vollbier on tap
The respective breweries and their pubs are only about 60 miles and an hour apart by car but for beer tourists using public transportation, they are much further. Brauerei Gradl is in the quiet hamlet of Leups in the rolling hills of Franconian Switzerland. Brauerei Schrüfer is similarly in the small village of Priesendorf, within the scenic Steigerwald. Both pubs are very traditional Franconian venues, manned by one or two people. You’ll get some funny looks walking into either but the locals warm up to you quickly enough. Soon you’ll understand why they are so highly regarded.
traditional spots in both Leups & Priesendorf
One key difference is Gradl generally serves their flagship dark beer via gravity dispense barrel whereas Schrüfer has regular kegs. While it would be ideal to drink them side by side by these dispense methods, I’m not likely to find myself in that position so this head-to-head Face-Off will be from bottles.
Gradl Dunkel vs Schrüfer Dunkles Vollbier
Samples: Gradl Dunkel 4.9% (expiration date March 2025) vs. Schrüfer Dunkles Vollbier 5% (March 2025)
Compared on February 15, 2025.
1st Period: Non-gustatory sensations were strong on both sides. The Schrüfer bottle is an old-style swing-top with a long neck and a hand-glued label while Gradl comes in a more typical stubby adorned with their colorful crest. Both poured gorgeously with massive rocky chiffon-like heads, Gradl’s tan and Schrüfer’s off-white. Gradl’s hue looks nearly black when in their relatively dark pub but shows a deep chestnut from the bottle while the Schrüfer is perhaps a notch darker and unfiltered. They both are a touch weak in the nose but similarly grainy with Gradl having a hint of caramel and Schrüfer being fruitier. This strong first periods finishes 2-2 in what appears a shootout.
2nd Period: Both beers had a medium body, neither heavy nor light. Many people mistakenly think dark beers are all heavy but these are session beers with a great mouthfeel. Gradl had a hoppy palate with a hint of dark chocolate and burnt caramel. It’s generally considered a bitter beer but when drinking them head-to-head, it wasn’t particularly so. The Schrüfer had more grain in the flavor but was also fruity, even with some dried fruit in the mix. Two more strong goals each with a 4-4 score.
3rd Period: The finish is what often separates beers but in this case, they both had lingering, semi-dry, semi-bitter to bitter finishes. You’d swear each one was better until you took another pull of the other. A 5-5 finish in regulation. This one’s going into overtime.
OT: Luckily we had a second bottle of each. My wife was leaning towards Gradl but was quite frankly amazed at how well Schrüfer played. To be quite honest, Gradl Dunkel is one which vies for our favorite beer in Franconia. My guess is from gravity, we’d have had an easier choice. As it is, Gradl squeezes one out, 6-5. One good thing is I’ll have an easier time getting my wife to Priesendorf this summer.
If you’ve enjoyed this Franconian Dark Beer Face-off: Gradl vs Schrüfer, please consider buying me a Dunkel 🍺
Heading to Bamberg? Don’t leave home without The Pocket Guide to Bamberg’s Best Beer.
Guided walks around the breweries in Bamberg or hikes to countryside breweries:
