Rattelsdorf is not only a charming market town a stone’s throw from Bamberg, it’s also the hub of a small group of smaller cute villages that line the scenic River Itz.  That each of these other hamlets have excellent small breweries will not go unnoticed by the astute beer wanderer.  Though there are infrequent buses between these oases of beery bliss, there are much better ways to get from Brewery A and Brewery B in these parts. You could walk lovely trails or if so inclined, perhaps the best way is by canoe.

scenic waterways & charming Old Town of Rattelsdorf

Oddly enough, Rattelsdorf is one town in this small area that does not have a brewery of its own, though the Brauhof Rattelsdorf is a venue of beery and non-beery events. It was perhaps a former brewery. It’s hard to imagine a village in this area not having one once upon a time! No worries, the surrounding breweries are mostly within a short walk and if not so inclined or looking for a place closer to your overnight accommodation to grab a beer, there is an absolutely wonderful Biergarten to do just that.

rattelsobere mühle
An der Itz 11
96179 Rattelsdorf
09547 76 27

Opening hours:
Summer only

Friday from 4:00
Saturday from 4:00
Sunday from 10:00
Holidays from 10:00

With two superb breweries within a short walk and two more well within a very manageable scenic hike, one might think that going to a non-brewery might be extravagant. I must admit I thought so too until I saw this place. Set right on the river in a lush forest setting, they could serve Bud Light and I’d stop in for a beer.

lush river setting of the Obere Mühle Biergarten

Well, kids, they thankfully do NOT serve Bud Light. They serve Mönchsambach’s Zehendner Lagerbier, from gravity dispense no less.  I was super happy when I saw online they had the Franconian legend on tap but when I went up to get one and saw the small keg sitting inside the dispensary window, I was elated.

Monsambacher Lagerbier served in logo Krug & gravity keg

So, you might think it’s a place to grab a beer or two and then head to the brewery for your meal. That was our plan, too. It was packed when we stopped in after our canoe trip. In fact, we had to grab a spot in the sun and that was not what we were looking for after the paddle. We decided to go back to the hotel for a shower and then head to Brauerei Endres in Höfen for dinner.  Their beer is one of the few I might say is even better than Mönchsambacher.  Refreshed, we walked the short but hot walk over to Höfen only to find it closed. They were on vacation for a couple weeks, a sign I’ve seen more than a few times in my beerwandering. With a thunderstorm threatening, we skedaddled back to the Obere Mühle.

village on horizon
views of Rattelsdorf as we hurried back

We made it back before the rain and it was far less busy though not empty. We found a spot easy enough and I went up to the self-service window to fetch some grub. I noticed a better spot, under a tree in case the rain materialized, and motioned to my wife to come stake a claim.  While I was getting our food, she saw what she had been hopping for all day. A very small table with an overhang but still not entirely inside had finally become available. She quickly snagged it and when I turned around to “our” empty table, I could hear her calling for me and soon saw her beaming face.

beautiful woman at biergarten                                                                  happy wife, happy life

I’d like to tell you it doesn’t get any better than that but somehow it actually does. The food, while only cold meat plates, was fabulous.  We got two even though one would have likely been enough. The Kalterbraten (cold roast pork) was maybe the second best we’d ever had and the Zwetschgenbames (thinly sliced beef smoked over plum wood) was every bit as good.

cold cuts with bread on plates

                                                        Kalterbraten & Zwetschgenbames

The plates come with nice bread, butter, a pickle and a few vegetables. You can get extra bits of all that for 20 cents. It’s great value, quite large and super high quality.  It goes very well with the beer, too. Can’t wait to back again!

my happy wife at our choice table & later when the lights came on

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